Socks, Socks, Socks -- A Book Report

They are probably on page two or three as you open the book. There is no picture - the very first pattern that shows you how to begin to make socks. It's just a regular sock pattern, but they came out really, really, cute. I had made them out of classic cotton to match an Ann Norling Hat that I had made.

After Bertha, page 11, report by Becky

I finished my second complete pair of socks! These are the ribbed spiral "After Bertha" socks from the Socks X3 book. What a wonderful sort of sock! Have to admit that I wasn't quite sure how that little spiral tube would actually look and fit but it's great!

Shell Lace, page 28, report by Judy (me)

I just had to try those adorable Shell Lace socks for little girls from the XRX book, even though everyone I know who has young children right now has boys... (No volunteers needed! I found somebody at work.)

Leaf Socks, page 36, report by Bev

I have finished the Leaf Lace socks. I used "Trekking" which is similar to "Socka" -- much more affordable, and only a scant shade finer. My gauge was 34 st/10 cm using 2.75 mm needles. The sock is 21.5 cm long. I really like the socks, and they fit well.

The only errors I found were in both the chart, and also the directions for the leaf border--
Row 9 should read -- P3,K1,Inc 1 p ways etc.
Row 12 should read bind off 5, not 6

Leaf Socks, report by Rebecca

The first ones [I made] were the Leaf Socks. I used natural colored socka and US #3 needles. I had the first one almost done, put it on my foot to admire, and realized I hated the bobbles. Frog time. I redid it, using the small bobbles on the leg, and a single purl st on the foot. I made the edging and put it on, but promptly took it off, as it somehow just looked clunky on my socks, but not in the picture. I did a wedge toe, as that fits my foot very well. I wore these while hiking in Big Basin Redwoods State Park in June.

[and a followup] I truly love my leaf socks. I forgot to mention in my previous post that I had to make the foot longer than the directions said, so I have the leaf going down onto the toe; I just worked the toe decreases around them. Looks pretty spiffy. I also used three rows of seed st at the top of the heel flap, since I like a plain sto st heel.

You could put a leaf down both sides, but you'll have to change the number of stitches, since they are worked on different bases. These socks fit my legs very well, and stay up without elastic or ribbing. I got about 8 sts per inch.

Leaf Socks, report by Irene

I did the leaf sock and I left out the large and small bobbles. Bobbles aren't my thing - thought the socks looked great without them.

Leaf Socks, conversation between Peggy and Judy

Peggy: I finished one of the Leaf socks...gauge was off a little and it is too large around the heel...:-(((, but I like them anyway and that won't show with my sandals on. Tried to do the leaf edging and noticed a small error...thanks to the person who turned it in to the list. But, the directions are very unclear as to attaching the edging and are we supposed to knit eight (8) of these? Didn't see that issue addressed.

Judy: By the way, I don't read it the way you do, as requiring eight separate leaves (maybe that's what caused my trouble), but as an eight-repeat border. It's buried in the midst of the row by row instructions. At the end of row 12, you bind off 6 of the eleven (? I count ten) sts on the needle and leave 5 (maybe you do five bind-offs, which involves 6 sts, but binds off 5 and leaves one st on the needle), which is what you need to start again at row 1. And then it says "rep. last 12 rows 7 times more." To me this is a continuous edging, which then ends with whatever it is that rows 13-24 bring, apparently a free leaf tip (that is, without the purl sts making a straight edge). This sounds like one of the leaf borders in the Martha Waterman shawls book from Interweave Press.

Leaf Socks, report by Judy

I started mine last night. I thought I'd start with the leaf edging and immediately ran into troubles. You [Peggy] mentioned a person who sent in a correction to the edging; it sounds like I may have turned a "small error" into a big mess! I was going to try starting with the leaf border, then pick up around the edge and segue into the sock. However, I tried it twice and twice ran into a problem with stitch count.

The first time I figured it was that I was misinterpreting their instructions for doing the increase. I mean, really! "Inc1p" means "increase one purlwise"--oh, thank you very much! The first time I increased by lifting and twisting the bar between stitches, and purling or knitting it, as required. I was clearly way off count on that one, so figured the increase also included working one of the exisiting stitches...so the second time I increased by purling (or knitting) into the front and back legs of the stitch. Better, but still not right.

[Later] By the way, I'm using Socka Cotton in sage green on 3's (normally I'd use 1's or 2's with sockweight but I'm trying to allow for cotton being less stretchy), and it looks lovely. The leg pattern with the wheat lace and the line of leaves down the side is nice. The patterns for these laces are fine, though watch for typos. Increasing by working into the front and back legs of the stitch is the right way to do it. I'm including the bobbles, as I think they really add to the design. Haven't finished yet, so can't report gauge or size.

Feather & Fan, page 38, report by Terri

I knitted the feather and fan socks in socksx3. I knitted them out of Wildefoote, blocked them last night and they are going to be shown in the next fair in the area. This is a really nice easy pattern to follow. It knits up very quickly.

I was able to get the gauge given in the book. The Wildefoote that I used was color Vanilla and these are wonderful socks. These socks are a bit big for my feet, but I have small feet (size 6). I would say I got a medium sized ladies sock. I will be knitting more of these socks for sure!

Gull Wings, page 39, report by Christine

Handspun/acid dyed mohair/CVM blend, #2 needles, fits womens 7. Again highly recommended as easy lace sock. No errors in pattern.

Gull Wings, report by Jeanne

I finally finished the lavender Gull Wing sock made from Fortissima cotton. The pattern in SocksX3 is correct, but I made an adjustment just based on my personal preference. I used size 000 needles, and wrapped the yarn around my finger 3 times. I felt like that gave me a very solid, firm fabric. Then my gauge was too small so I added enough stitches for one more pattern repeat. Then when it came time to turn the heel, I found another sock pattern that had that many stitches on it and used that.

The lace pattern is really easy to learn. I didn't need the book after the first few repeats. My DD has them and wants another pair, so they are in fact wonderful. I love the Fortissima cotton. It feels great.

Gull Wings, report by Judy

I have done the Gull Wings in Socka50 on 1's, getting the recommended gauge, 8 sts/in in stockinette. I needed about a ball and a half. The socks are a bit too tight for my size 8 foot (so they're destined for a gift), and I expect they'll be tighter after washing. I'd say they're women's size 6 or 7. The pattern had no errors and was a breeze to knit. The lace pattern was easy to learn. This would be a good first lace project for a new sock knitter. Hint: this sock could easily be made a bit larger by adding purl stitches between the lace patterns.

Gull Wings, report by Norma

I've just completed the Gull Wing socks from Socksx3 book for my GD. I used Sirdir Opium DK(58%cotton,37%acrylic,5%silk); size 3 needles for a gauge of 6sts/in. The pattern is easy to follow, no errors that I detected and well written. I liked the heel since it made nice stitches that I twisted thru the back loops to pick up. This was my first experience with cotton and I had no problems with it. I'm not sure how it will wear or wash but it sure looks great and feels wonderful!

Purl Lace, page 40, report by Sheila

I am just finishing up the Purl Lace socks and found the pattern very nice and easy. Since I never seem to follow anything exactly I have to admit that I did make 2 changes. I started the pattern row with the p2tog, p1, p2tog. to avoid the yo. coming at the end of the needle. Also when I got to the area above the ankle I made three separate decreases to shape it to my leg which avoided any wrinkles in the back of the sock. I never remember to write things down so I can't give chapter and verse, but the decreases of 3 sets of 2sts worked right in to the pattern so that at the end I had a perfect repeat of the pattern which came in the middle of the 26 sts used for the heel flap. It is a very pretty sock and I did them in strawberry pink Socka cotton on sz. 1 needles for the ribbing and sz2 for the other parts. I have a sz. 7 foot and they fit perfectly.

Purl Lace, report by Judy

I've just done (or at least, I've done the first and part of the second) the Purl Lace Socks from the Socks, Socks, Socks book by XRX press. I can tell this is going to be one of my favorite last-minute gift socks patterns: because the stitch pattern has three rounds of plain knitting for each pattern round it knits up blazingly fast. It's also simple enough to adjust for other yarn size/needle size/foot size combinations: any multiple of 6 sts will do!

Only one teensy quibble with the pattern as published: After the gusset pick-ups, the instructions for the instep needle (needle 2) say only "continue in lace pattern." They forgot that there's an extra stitch on each end of the needle; this needs to be done in plain knit (doing in patt would call for a YO on one end). Instruction should read:

On 2nd dpn, k1, do 4 rpts of lace patt, k1

Tiger Eye, page 42, report by Rochelle

I wear a size 8 or 8.5 shoe (US sizing) and I had the same problem never having done toe up socks before. I originally did the sock with 5 repeats of the tiger eye pattern and then I did the heel. When I turned the heel I realized how the shaping worked I knew the sock was going to be way too long. I ended up ripping back and I did 4 repeats of the tiger eye pattern instead and the length is now perfect. I did not write down how long the foot was before but I will double check it when I do the second sock and let everyone know.

[And she did!...]
The socks I did were the tiger eye socks from the Socks X3 book. I used Patons Kroy 3 ply and 2.75mm needles. Gauge was 32 sts = 4 inches in st st, and 46 rows = 4 inches in st st.

When I first decided to make these socks I thought I needed to make them larger because I am a big woman and had a wide foot. So I decided to try adding a total of 12 stitches to the toe, 63 sts instead of 51. When I did about 3 repeats I put the stitches on a thread and tried them on and thought it was alright so I continued on. After I turned the heel and finished the gusset I tried them on again and decided they were too big so I ripped them out. I went back to the original pattern as stated and decided to work from there.

When I finished the first sock the foot was alright but because the cast off was to tight they didn't fit very well on the leg. I couldn't get the slip stitch crochet cast off to be stretchy enough so I decided to do a k1p1 rib. For some reason the cast off wasn't stretchy enough either so after I had all the ends tucked in and I was halfway through the second sock I decided to take out the k1p1 cuff and retry the picot edging. A fellow lister (sorry I don't remember your name) suggested I do a single crochet cast off instead of the slip stitch. That worked well. When I tried to do the picot edge row with slip stitch it was to tight again so I did single crochets instead of slip stitches on that row as well.

... I must admit I am very pleased with the way it fits. I have one more tiger eye repeat to do on the leg of my second sock and I will be binding off the stitches. I ended up with 9 tiger eye repeats for the entire sock. The only thing I would do differently on the next pair of toe up socks is do the gusset with a sl, k1 pattern so it will hold up to wear and tear better. I haven't quite figured out how I would do it but I will the next time I work a pair of toe up socks.

Vine Lace, page 43, report by Lisa

I am knitting the Vine Lace socks from Socks X 3 right now. It's an easy pattern to knit - one row of lace followed by one row knit plain. I have turned the heel and am about halfway down the foot. It seems like it will fit my size 8 foot pretty well.

Vine Lace, report by Jane

I did these twice. The first time I did them from Fortissima Cotton. I did not find any errors in the pattern. I just had to pay close attention to what I was doing, I kept messing up the pattern but it was ME not the pattern. I felt the heel flap should have been a little longer and that was easily remedied on pair #2. I used the size needles recommended for the first pair. The second pair I did out of Paton's Diploma Gold 4ply machine washable and dryable yarn which I got when I visited my daughter in London in May. It is part wool, part nylon and part acrylic. I had to go up a needle size for that pair.

I worked both pair to 7.5 inches and then did the toe. They fit my 8.5 shoe sized foot and my daughter's 9.5 shoe size foot.

Appearance wise, I liked the way the Fortissima ones looked when done better than the Paton ones and I think that was because of the yarn but that is just me, one is cotton the other is wool, so you would expect them to look different. The Paton ones look fine and if I had never seen them done in the Fortissima, I probably wouldn't even have commented.

Vine Lace, report by Rose

Just last night, I put the finishing touches on a completed pair of Koigu vine lace socks! I did them in color #100, which is predominantly blues and greens, but has every other color under the sun in it as well. I loved the Koigu a lot, and am itching to do another pair of socks in it. Here are my comments on these socks.

Free-form Socks, page 53, report by Kerry

[no yarn specifications because...] The free form socks are anything you want them to be!! My daughter chose the yarns, all 12ply weight, ie thick, triple knit, bulky, whatever expression is used for approximately 16 st to 10cm on 5mm needles. I measured them on her foot as I went along.

False Flame Crew Socks, page 55, report by Rebecca The third pair [I made] was the False Flame Crew Socks, which I found to be strangely annoying, but only because I don't like making socks in worsted weight yarn. So it was a personal thing, nothing wrong with the pattern.

Best of Show Socks, page 58, report by Kerry

I have done one of the "Best of Show" socks. I have enjoyed these immensely. I used Patonyle sock wool in navy and cream and Patons 4ply fingering in lavender blue. My only suggestion is to add to the instructions the reminder to do the toe decreases in the same colour so that the stripes retain their impact. I loved working on this sock. The results looks great on the foot. The first chart needs a little concentration, but the second is reasonably easy. There is a very satisfying rhythm even with the three colours.

Wedgwood Socks, page 59, report by Nanette

Re: the Wedgwood socks - I frogged them today because I've decided they were too tight. So I added 16 stitches and I get to try my hand at the gusset again soon.

At the gusset, the first time it says Next rnd it should read:
"On first dpn, k to last 2 sts, k2tog; on 2nd dpn, k2, (work 8-st rep of rnd 5 of chart B) 4 times, then sts 1-5 once, K2 MC; on 3rd dpn, ssk (NOT k2tog), k to end - 82 sts."

The other stuff was just the differences between the photos and the written pattern but isn't an error like the above. They are really gorgeous socks and definitely worth the effort.

Salsa Socks, page 63, reported by Christine

Butterfly Bows, page 70, reported by Christine

Handspun & varigated Polypay lambswool dyed with Koolaid, #3 needles, fits womens 7, no pattern errors. It's a charming sock. Highly recommended and approved by very picky 13 yo daughter. [Thank you!--jg]

Butterfly Bows, reported by Kathy

Right now, I'm working on the second sock of the Judy Gibson Butterfly bows off the net and out of the Socks, Socks, Socks book. My 9 yr old thinks they are way kewl mom and has been wearing the one finished sock while at the tv. [again! --jg]

Slouch Socks, page 71, report by Margaret

I finished sock#1. I used (basically) the Slouch Sock pattern on pg. 71 of Socks, Socks, Socks. For the foot I did a P3,K3 row x5 and K3, P3 row x5 repeat, eliminating the rows that were K or P across. I also did the heel and foot on 1 size smaller needle.

Imagine my shock and despair when having finished it, and (began to remove the scrap yarn for the invisible cast on) I discovered I did not have a tubular edge! I had to pick up every one of those #@% little stitches and do a K1, P1 cast off!

Whether I goofed in the cast on, or there's a mistake in the pattern I don't know (yet). I guess I hope I make the same "mistake" on sock #2 so that they'll look the same when I finish.

I used Vanilla SOCKA Sport & Strumpf on # 1's for the leg, and #0's for the heel & foot. Really like the appearance and fit. These are a gift for dgd's 19th b'day. Will send a pic when #2 completed.

Slouch Socks, page 71, Designer Morgan Adcock replies to Margaret's comment:

The person who wrote that is absolutely correct. The "invisible cast-on" which XRX introduced into the pattern is wrong, or, at least, misleading.

In the "Techniques & Abbreviations" section of *Socks, Socks, Socks" the correct cast on is shown as "Invisible cast-on." In XRX's revision of my pattern, however, the instructions say, "Using invisible cast-on and scrap yarn, cast on 72 sts. Change to sock yarn." This would indicate to me that the person who rewrote my pattern used the older version of invisible casting on, in which stitches were cast on using the waste yarn to form the cast on stitches, then the knitter switched to the working yarn when beginning to knit, after which s/he had to go back and pick out each waste yarn stitch, one by one. At least that's the way I understood their revision, and how Margaret apparently read it also.

My apologies to Margaret, and others who had to pick out all 72 of those cast on stitches. After waiting over a year, I finally received XRX's proof of my pattern, as it had been revised, to read, comment on, and return. My initial reaction was, "What did they do to my pattern?!?" I put it down, resolving to let myself get accustomed to the fact that they had made many changes, then to try to look it over with an open mind about whether those actually altered the pattern substantively. Less than 24 hours later, however, I learned that my son, at college in another state, had been admitted to the oncology ward of the local hospital. By the time I came up for air (after my son recovered), and thought about the pattern proof again, I knew that the opportunity had passed.

If you use the cast on in the "Techniques & Abbreviations" section of the book, note that the waste yarn is held straight and the first row of stitches is cast on around it using the sock yarn. Once you're ready to remove the waste yarn, you just pull it out, and you have a tubular rib which seems to fold over on itself, and is nice and stretchy.

peace,
[beth] morgan adcock

Aran Sandal Socks, page 74, report by Mary

I have finished my Aran Braid socks and washed them. I knitted them using Wildfoote. I was surprised at how much the yarn bloomed during the wash. I am starting another pair, only this time I am using Socka. I was hoping someone could tell me if this yarn blooms as much during wash. If it does, I think I will use smaller needles.

Aran Sandal Socks, a note from Judy

Spring Fever, page 87, report by Rebecca

The second pair [I made] was the Spring Fever Socks (sorta). I used Fortissima Cotton and 2.75 mm needles. These are not the socks to work on in a poorly lighted motel room. I only put in one ridge, as those things are real killers. I made the foot plain white, because I prefer a plain foot. I had intended to put the "spring" on them, but they seemed pretty nifty as they were, so I didn't. I would have appreciated a better picture of the beading, but someone in the editorial staff put the word "whimsical" right across the sock on a big black band. But I managed. I'd recommend making the cuff with a larger needle than the foot. I can only just ease these on over my heel, and I was very careful doing the color work. Of course, if they were made of wool instead of cotton there would be more ease.

Little Piggy Toes, page 88 -- a report from the designer, sent on by Anita

First of all, I must tell you that I am VERY flattered that you plan to make the Pig Socks that I designed. [...]

The pig noses were made of Fimo. I rolled the Fimo into a long tube, sliced it with a sharp edge, pressed it between my fingers to make it oval and poked two holes in each one with a darning needle for nostrils. The noses are secured onto the pigs faces with two little black beads. This will secure them without having sewing thread drawn between the two holes connecting the nostrils.

The yarn I used was Dale's Baby Ull. If I were to make the socks again, I would make the heel flap longer--perhaps 3/8" longer.

The construction of the toes is much the same as one would do in making gloves. In fact, I referred to Deborah Newton's sock article in Threads when trying to determine how best to approach the toes. I modified the construction slightly by knitting two rounds before each toe was made. This helps offset the anatomical difference between toes and fingers--fingers tend to be straight across the hand, toes tend to angle upward as they go up towards the big toe (at least mine do).

Maple Swirl Socks, (shown on cover) page 90, report by Tan

I started swatching for the cover socks in some Jo Sharp I had on hand, not realizing that there was an error in the gauge listed for those socks--the ones on the cover of Socks, Socks, Socks. Apparently the gauge given in the book is twice what it should be. I thought it was rather an impossible gauge for that yarn

I don't like the way the garter stitch looks, and would hate wearing socks that thick so wanted a lighter yarn. I was experimenting with stockinette with garter bands at the edges. I quit when I realized that my colors weren't working, and decided to put it aside for a while.

SOS! Special Occasion Slippers, page 104, report by Connie

I have made the SOS! Special Occasion Slippers. They were fun to make and I had no problems at all following the pattern -- this is only my third pair of socks (the first was the Baby Socks pattern on page 7). I used size 7 dpn and some Red Heart acrylic yarn I had left over from an afghan project. The gauge came out to 4 sts/inch, 4 garter ribs per inch. I did 30 rows of garter stitch to fit my size 8½ foot but otherwise followed the pattern. Also, I wove a twisted cord around the ankle because I like my slippers to feel secure.

SOS! Special Occasion Slippers, report by Wren

I have knit one of the Icelandic slippers. The Special Occasion Slippers on page 104. They were very fun to knit and the pattern had no errors but the size was VERY small. When knit to gauge and pattern directions the finished slipper is very short. Maybe a womens size 5 or so. This can easily be remedied by knitting the garter stitch for an extra couple inches or using a size larger needle and heavier weight yarn. The eyelet pattern on the slipper top is pretty and makes it a "special" slipper to wear or give as a gift. This pattern would be a good first lesson in yo's and goes fairly fast.

Building Blocks, page 105, report by Nancy

Error: Directions tell you on line 2 to "Pick up and k sts along top of 24 rows of C as foll: 12 sts with B along top of rows 13-24, 12 sts with A along rows 1-12." This is wrong because according to the photo, section C is 48 rows long and you have to pick up and 12 sts with B along rows 25-48 and 12 sts with A along rows 1-24.

[and she asked]..."However, how can this pattern be enlarged? I tried making one using doubled worsted weight and while I have big feet (woman's 12) I can fit both feet in one!"

Building Blocks, comment by Judy

...which prompted this reply from me (who hasn't actually tried it, of course)...
Since it's garter stitch, it is perfectly square--with a number of rows double the number of stitches always making a perfect square. This principle was creatively exploited by Elizabeth Zimmerman in many, many garter stitch patterns in her career! You ought to be able to increase the number of stitches and then knit double that number of rows for each square. For example instead of squares of 12 sts by 24 rows, try 14 sts by 28 rows, or 15 by 30...etc.